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Our ninth visit to Costa Rica, would we be bored? Or make new
discoveries and have excitement? We planned an itinerary of old
favorites and new places to check out, and possibly recommend to our
clients. So here goes a
summary of our two weeks in Costa Rica, no we're not bored! Some of our
discoveries are on the January 2004 itinerary. They are marked with *
here.We always begin and end our trip in the capital city of San Jose, a short ride from the international airport. Le Bergerac is an elegant French inn located in a quiet residential neighborhood within walking distance to the center of San Jose. The rooms are spacious (for CR) and furnished with period pieces. The food is deliciously Fench and service very attentive. It is a favorite of locals for fine dining which is inside or in the small adjoining garden. (They kept apologizing for the cold wave; but at 68 degrees it felt balmy compared to the single digits at home). This small hotel says it has "all the refinement of an elegeant French inn in the sunlit heart of CR". Guests use this cozy inn as a base for takeing short trips to explore the countryside and beaches.
A highlight of our stay in San Jose was a visit to the home and exquisite gardens of Ileana de Teran.* Everyone loves to visit a private residential garden, especially when the passionate homeowner is your guide. Generations in the making and lovingly cared for, this garden is one of the most beautiful private gardens in Costa Rica. Set on a hillside east of the capital city amidst a working coffee plantation, thousands of tropical plants are carefully arranged surrounding the residence. An incredible collection of pre Columbian and Colonial artifacts are placed amidst the plants, ponds and streams. Ileana is president and founder of SACRO Foundation, Save Costa Rican Orchids, and her orchid collection dances, sings and reflects her passion. 
After a day and evening in San Jose we were rested, well
fed and eager to begin our journey southwest to Tiskita
Jungle Lodge*. My husband, Don says, "The best part of
the adventure is getting there". Sansa flies from San Jose
way down to Pt. Jiminez in the lower part of Osa
Peninsula. Then a one engine plane takes four of us
across the bay almost to Panama. We thought we would
land on a sandy beach, but our competent pilot veered
over to a grass strip and gave us a smooth and gentle
landing. We were greeted by Lizabeth and her handsome
son, Clyde, who drove our gear up the hill in his pickup.We were warmly welcomed by Peter Aspinall who explained how he has farmed here for 20 plus years planting over 100 tropical fruit trees. When he found out his dream of exporting these exotic fruits was not feasible, they started the lodge to welcome guests from all over the world and introduce them to the beauties of the rainforest and the adjoining Pacific Ocean. Three generations of this eclectic, warm family educated in Canada are the hosts. Peter and Lizbeth's daughter is now in college, 13 yr old Brianna is eager to study in there. The 74 yr old grandmother, a life long pilot, who emigrated from Scotland graduated from college there and entertained us with stories of early life in Costa Rica, which is a melting pot of people from all over the world. Tiskita Memories
We sleep well here with soothing sounds of night animals and the pounding serf. The loud riverside wren nesting outside our cabin wakes us each moring at dawn, and we learn there are 12 different complicated birdsongs. Endangered Scarlet Macaws have been introduced here on an experimental project and are being fed and cared for by a resident intern. Six of the 12 introduced eggs aresoaring magnificently and the family is proud of its offspring. They will reproduce in a few years and are happily thriving on Peter's fruit and almond trees. The whole family sees us off at the airstrip and then we fly back to San Jose for a ride down to Manuel Antonio and Quepos. We seek out small inns and family run eco lodges, but thought it would be interesting to stop and check out the Mariott Los Suenos Resort which boasts several pools complete with waterfalls and 18 hole golf course and gambling casino. Some people stay in this posh place for the whole vacation and others use it as a base to take day trips.
We stay for three days at Si Como No (translated means "yes, why not"). This lovely hotel is a favorite of honeymooners and has two swimming pools, hot tubs and romantic views of the Pacific Ocean. It was quite a suprise and a culture shock to watch a nightly movie in the state-of-the art theatre that seats about 50 and has superb surround sound. We learn that the hotel owner is a former Hollywood director. Nightly movies are free for guests. The Serenity Spa was just that and gives a full array of services, including couple's message in the tropical garden. A scrumptious breakfast buffet is included in the room rate and the other meals are optional. All dining overlooks the sea. There are a wide variety of day tours including visits to the Manuel Antonio National Park, mangrove boat rides, birding, etc. We opted to take the publick bus to downtown Quepos and had dinner after seeing the sunset. After being in the jungle that is alive with the sights and sounds of wildlife, we were missing it and eager to get back. So off we went to Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge. Going to Corcovado is another adventure. We have previously traveled there from San Jose airport, but this time flew out of Quepos airport. After landing at Palmer Sur airstrip (another grassy strip) we take a 30 min drive through cocoanut oil groves and banana plantations. Our guide, Rebecca, told us they had been abandoned 20 years ago by United Fruit Co. They found more fertile land and better growing climate on the more humid Caribbean side of the country near Tortuguero. The government has given the little houses of the workers to any citizen who need them.
Six of us board an open boat whith blue canvas top for a smooth and beautiful ride down the Sierpe River admiring the wildlife on the way, then the river empties into the sea and we have a brisk and choppy ride over the ocean waves. "Hold on tight, one hand in front and the other in back", Rebecca tells us. Our experienced driver maneuvers around large volcanic outcropping, a little scary, but we feel safe. All the way are in sight of Corcovado National Park which National Geographic calls "the most biologically diverse place on earth." It is home to myriad plants, animals and birds, the brilliant and endangered Scarlet Macaw being its most cherished resident. It's a thrill to see them in flight and eating on the fruit, especially at the water's edge.
After two hours on the boat we're greeted on theshore by a contingent of cheerful helpers to assist in debarking (very strong hands and arms, they must have done this a million times). We're accompanied by a well-traveled 30 something Swiss couple. A tractor carries the four of us to the top of the hill and our most welcome cocktail, a mixed fruit, "with or without rum". We chose Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge because they have made improvements since we were there a few years agoa and also because this place is the only lodge that is adjacent to the Park. Not only do they have their own 8 miles of walking trails, but you can walk right into the Park, which we did to our delight. The walk guided by Rebecca took us across small rivers to spectacular waterfalls and pools, most refreshing in the 90 degree heat. (We couldn't complain about the heat because the whole of U.S. was freezing all the while we were in CR).  Don and Peggy at the ranger's station at the entrance of Corcovado National Park Casa Corcovado Highlights
After three full days in Corcovado it was hard to take ourselves back to civilization which we did by boardng the boat back and doing the adventuer in reverse. We are met at the airport by our Horizontes guide and taken by can to the Bougainvillea Hotel* in the mountains overlooking the city. Don calls this his "favorite hotel in the world". The same cheerful and helpful staff is there year after year, the extensive gardens are always being attended and added to.
This year we got to see the beautiful new ornamental pool with exotic plants that was begun a year ago, and arbor completely covered by red passionflower. It was hard to believe that this vine had grown in one year to cover the whole walkway. The dining room had been expanded to let in more light and make room for the extensive collection of pre-Columbian art; the food was as tasteful as ever. The swimming pool is always a treat. The hotel has a shuttle bus that takes you to downtown and it is fun to take an annual pulse of the city and go to our favorite Italian Restaurant El Bacon Europa. Staying here is a great way to end a perfect trip.  Rainbow outside of our window on our last night As a landscape designer, especially interested in tropical plants, teh 28 acres of gardens always intrigue me. Here are all the most popular and beautiful exotic plants and many lesser known varieties arranged in a garden setting. Below are some pictures of these dazzling performers.
Costa Rica Naturally!
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